“I long to ride a bike, dance, whistle, look at the world, feel young and know that I’m free…” Anne Frank, The Diary of a Young Girl

I read Anne Frank’s diary over 50 years ago. I was so moved by her story that I’ve wanted to visit the annex where she and her family took refuge in Amsterdam ever since.

This last month, while on a Viking river cruise of the Rhine, Main, and Danube Rivers, the dream became a reality.

And, we did our best to honor young Anne’s wish for simple freedoms by actively pursuing them throughout our adventure!

AMSTERDAM MAY 21-23

The staff of the Pulitzer Hotel was putting up cream-colored bunting and massive flower arrangements at the front entrance when we arrived. At check-in, the staff invited us to the annual “Garden Party.” This is a celebration of the Pulitzers’ expansion and renovation ten years ago. The hotel consists of 25 restored 17th- and 18th-century individual homes that are exquisitely linked together to form one amazing space.  Brad and I enjoyed watching the fashionistas and young people gather in the courtyards as we raised a toast to our 38th wedding anniversary.

The next morning, we set out on the first (of so many) organized walking tours of the various cities we visited.

Stolpersteine, German for “stumbling stones,” is a program initiated by artist Gunter Demnig in 1992, commemorating all victims of the Nazi regime. The stones are placed in front of the victims’ last place, whether business or home, where they were free. Over 120,000 of the plates are in over thirty countries.

The peaceful sanctuary in the other photo is Begijnhof, hidden in the heart of Amsterdam. We were instructed to be silent as we roamed the grounds of the 14th-century former home to Begijntjes, a Catholic sisterhood (not nuns) who chose to live semi-monastically.

The Frank family hid away in the annex of Otto Frank’s business on July 6, 1942. They were discovered just over two years later and deported to Auschwitz. Otto was the only survivor, and upon his return, he discovered the space was empty. The annex opened as a museum in 1960, left barren as it was after the war. This is a small-scale study of a sculpture of Anne Frank. The text behind the statuette reads, “I’ll make my voice heard, I’ll go out into the world and work for mankind!” The bookcase is the original, the passage to the secret annex.

Anne Frank photo credit/Photo collection: Anne Frank Stichting, Amsterdam/ photographer unknown

Sunflowers, van Gogh museum, Amsterdam canal, a scene from Vondelpark, and cheese, glorious cheese!

Viking Ship

We set sail on the Skadi, a 440-foot Viking river ship, on May 23. This is a photo of our stateroom, all 205 feet. Note the flowers tucked in the corner…a sweet and beautiful gift from Kyle and Ian in honor of our anniversary.

May 24-25 Kinderdijk, Cologne, and Bruhl

We sailed overnight on the Rhine to Kinderdijk and took a walking tour to the beautiful windmills. We were able to wind our way up the narrow staircases into the keeper’s living quarters. At Brad’s height, it’s just as well that was never to be his livelihood. The next day, we walked through Cologne. The highlight is the cathedral, which was spared during World War II as it served as a landmark for pilots.  Listed as a UNESCO heritage site since 1984, the Augustusburg and Falkenlust Palaces in Brühl were exquisite.

May 26-28 Koblenz (Marksburg Castle), Miltenberg, Würzburg, and Bamberg

There are over 40 castles on the Rhine between Bingen am Rhein and Marksburg. The Marksburg castle is only one of two that were never destroyed, and the only one to not fall into disrepair! Love the 12th-century reading nook, and the view was spectacular.

We loved Miltenberg, Germany, which sits on the Main River. It is a beautiful medieval town with an old castle, which we just had to make our way up to.

The full-day trip to Rothenburg ob der Tauber was worth the drive. We traveled for a bit on the Romantic Road…a 220-mile scenic route winding from the Main River to the Alps. The town of Rothenburg served as Walt Disney’s visual inspiration for the village in Pinocchio, and a scene from Harry Potter and the Deathly Hollows was filmed here.

Known as the Wurzburg Residence, this was the palatial home to a succession of prince-bishops for over 200 years. One who holds this title is both a Catholic bishop and the civil ruler of the territory. Construction on the palace began in 1720 but was not completed until sixty years later. Only a few weeks before the end of World War II, an air raid destroyed 90 percent of the town, and the residence was nearly burned down. The photo doesn’t do the fresco by artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo justice.

We arrived in Bamberg on the morning of Friday, May 29, day nine of our 20-day adventure! I opted for the walking tour, and Brad chose the Franconian Beer Culture experience. I had fun texting pictures of these separate experiences to the kids… me at a library with an illustration exhibit, and Brad enjoying the local brews.

May 29-June 2 Nuremberg, Regensburg, and Salzburg

The weather on the morning we drove into Nuremberg reflected the solemness that prevailed. As we drove past the massive, unfinished grounds where propaganda rallies were held from 1933 to 1938, it began to rain.  It lightened up a bit as we came upon the Palace of Justice, where in Courtroom 600 the prosecution of Nazi war criminals occurred.  Brad and I were led on a tour (by 7’2″ Martin) through the bunkers beneath Nuremberg Castle, where priceless artwork, stained glass, and other treasures of the Holy Roman Empire were kept.

Our itinerary had a slight change as the water levels of the Main/Danube canal were too low for our ship to pass through. So, we repacked, left our luggage outside our door before we left for Nuremberg, then were bused that afternoon to a different Viking ship, the Bragi. The transition was seamless, and although we would miss the Skadi crew, the new crew did their utmost to provide excellent service. Brad went on to Regensburg while I rested my foot (dealt with a bone chip and fifth metatarsal injury the whole trip).  Storms raged that afternoon, but cleared up to provide this beautiful sunset.

 

“The hills are alive with the sound of music…” I was so excited about our full-day tour of Salzburg. Many scenes from my favorite musical were filmed here, including Maria singing “I Have Confidence” and splashing water from the Residence Fountain in front of the Salzburg Palace. After the tour, we took the funicular up to Fortress Hohensalzburg, one of the biggest castles in Europe. Our last stop was an organized lunch, where songs from the musical were performed. Singing was definitely involved!

Benedictine monks have been living and working at the Melk Abbey uninterrupted since 1089! Our guide was a former student of the school, which is still in operation. What an amazing sacred space! Our ship was docked close to the Abbey, so we were able to walk back…a welcome reprieve from buses! Later that day, we did get on a bus headed out into the countryside of the beautiful Wachau Valley. Our destination was the Morwald winery. The photo captures the fun experience with Erhard, the vintner, and our guide, who came to Austria as a Fulbright scholar from Vermont and stayed ever since. We bought a bottle of their award-winning Grüner Veltliner. It managed to make its way home unbroken!

June 3-4 Vienna

Billy Joel wrote his ballad, “Vienna,” after a visit with his estranged father in the city. Joel observed that the elderly were respected, in contrast to how older people were treated in the United States. The lyrics remind us to slow down, to enjoy life, and to know that one doesn’t have to fear aging. Our first day in this beautiful city was rainy, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying. I managed to get a photo of one of the famous Lipizzaner horses as it looked up from its stall. St. Stephens Cathedral is breathtaking, and literally at the heart of the city. The flower market offered a bright spot on the rainy day, as did Brad’s cute smile.

“Slow down, you crazy child, and take the phone off the hook and disappear for a while. It’s alright, you can afford to lose a day or two… when will you realize, Vienna waits for you…” 

We took the lyrics to heart as we went rogue and made our own plans for day 2. We walked into town, rented e-bikes (first experience for both of us!), and rode 25 miles on bike trails and roads up to Josefsdorf, offering incredible views of the city. I’ll never forget the fast-paced ride down the steep cobblestone street, making our way back into town. I’m not sure how effective my slippery helmet would have been!

June 5 Budapest

One day was not enough to experience this city, which is actually two…Buda and Pest. (Pronounced PESHT) We were wise to hire our own driver and tour guide for the day, which helped us get to all the highlights. Our list included the Royal Palace, the views from Fisherman’s Bastion (the pic with the arches), Gellert Hill with the Statue of Liberty, reflecting Hungary’s liberation from Nazi rule, the Chain Bridge, Parliament, Basilica of St. Stephen, and City Park and Heroes Square. We ended the day at the famous Szechenyi thermal baths.

I cried at the haunting Shoes Memorial on the Danube Bank. Cast-iron replica shoes serve as a reminder of the horrors of Nazi victims being forced to take off their shoes…a valued commodity, before being shot to death, their bodies tumbling into the river. Most of the shoes were filled with pebbles. Our guide explained that placing one in a shoe honors the memory of the thousands of Jews murdered here. I picked one up and gently put it in a child’s shoe.

June 6-8 Prague

This city is a fairytale, with its own Snow White! We stayed in Mala Strana, right near the famous Charles Bridge. Highlights included Prague Castle, the Astronomical Clock (featured in Dan Brown’s novel, Secret of Secrets), a boat ride into the Devil’s Inlet (or Little Venice), and exploring hidden little cafes and shops. It was my favorite destination, and I would go back in a heartbeat. As famed novelist Franz Kafka wrote about his hometown in 1912, “Prague never lets you go…this mother has sharp claws.”

I don’t think we’ll ever be able to let go of the many memories throughout our trip. My only regret was not getting photos with the new friends we made on the ship…including Denise, Tom, Kendall, and Quinton from CA, Frank and Barbara from Coeur d’Alene, ID, Troy and Julie from Madison, WI, Paula and her sister from Bloomfield Hills and Philadelphia, Jenny from New Zealand, and so many others who shared their stories and opened their hearts to ours over memorable dinners and shared experiences.

That is the only regret, though, as I know we honored young Anne Frank in her desire to be free to enjoy all this world has to offer, while singing, bike riding, dancing, and simply looking around.